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Some chefs are trying crowd-pleasing gambits. At Harbour in New York, executive chef and partner Joe Isidori, who earned a star in the 2009 Michelin guide while cooking at DJT in Las Vegas, will cook Sunday brunch — a meal many top chefs consider beneath them — and will make things like fried catfish sandwiches for take-out lunches.

“I’m a Michelin-star chef willing to put my business hat on and do take out,” he says.

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